44 pages • 1 hour read
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Eva Thorvald, the celebrated chef and mastermind behind the exclusive dining experience known as The Dinner, is the protagonist in this novel. Born and raised in the American Midwest, specifically in and around Minnesota, Eva’s journey spans from her modest beginnings to culinary stardom. Although she is the focal point of the story, it is only her teenage years, marked by school bullying and a penchant for cultivating intensely spicy chili peppers, which are recounted from her perspective in Chapter 2. The novel unfolds predominantly through a selection of outside viewpoints and peripherical characters other than Eva, which combine to give an image of her character.
Eva is often described as possessing a generational palette, and her father, Lars, nurtures her culinary prowess nearly from birth. He exposes her to specialty vegetables at farmers’ markets and crafts elaborate, albeit inappropriate, menus during her infancy. In almost every chapter, she is associated with an item of food. This underscores the theme of Food as a Source of Identity and Community; instead of characterizing Eva through interiority, Stradal partly characterizes her through her cooking or interactions with food.
Eva’s story is one of Resilience and Overcoming Adversity from orphanhood, with her father succumbing to a heart attack and her mother abandoning her. Rising from hardship and misfortune, Eva navigates through obstacles, confronts school bullies, transforms a setback involving stolen medical funds into the creation of The Dinner, and rebuffs the advances of an obsessed admirer, Will Prager. Eva is a strong-willed and determined character reflecting the spirit of struggle and resilience that defines how Stradal portrays the American Midwest.
Beneath her culinary prowess, Eva emerges as a kind and generous individual, acknowledging several times the importance of human connections in life. Whether claiming Octavia Spencer’s succotash as her own, offering emotional support to Will in the wake of his mother’s passing, compensating Jordy for venison while providing comforting words, or inviting Pat Prager to showcase her famous bars at The Dinner, Eva consistently extends a helping hand to those around her. Eva’s narrative unfolds as a tale of triumph over adversity, fueled by her culinary passion and underscored by her kindness and generosity.
Lars Thorvald, the initial character introduced in the novel, is the father of the protagonist Eva. Offensively nicknamed “fish boy” during his formative school days, Lars gained this moniker due to his obligation to prepare the traditional Norwegian dish lutefisk each season. The pungent smell of this dish, which deters any potential girlfriends, becomes a defining characteristic and ironically inspires him to pursue a career as a chef. Lars represents Midwestern gastronomic traditions; he maintains some pride in them despite discouragement.
Lars, an exceptional chef employed at the upscale lakeside restaurant Hutmacher’s, imparts his refined palate and culinary expertise to his daughter. He introduces Eva to the vibrant world of farmers markets and elaborate menus, fostering her passion for future culinary endeavors. He is therefore a sage character archetype who imparts wisdom to the protagonist.
Despite being married to Cynthia Hargreaves, Lars faces the challenge of single parenthood after Cynthia leaves to seek a life of travel and independence, deeming herself unfit for motherhood. In contrast, Lars embraces fatherhood with love and devotion toward Eva, cherishing every moment with her. His life is cut short by a heart attack on Christmas Day when Eva is still an infant, and she grows up unaware of his true identity as her biological father. These form the inciting incidents of the novel which set Eva on her path to overcome adversity.
Cynthia Hargreaves, also known as Cindy, emerges as the initially absent mother of Eva Thorvald in the opening chapter. Swiftly disengaging from her maternal responsibilities, she justifies her departure by deeming herself an unfit mother, emphasizing that she never truly desired parenthood and was coerced into it by her then-husband, Lars. This suggests that patriarchal expectations in Midwestern America make it difficult for women carve an alternative life path.
Absent from the narrative until the concluding chapter, Cynthia resurfaces as a sommelier at a Californian winery. In this way, her narrative partly parallels Eva’s, suggesting that both women are attempting to carve a successful life path against the odds. It is during her work that two patrons mention Eva’s name, sparking her curiosity. Unaware of her daughter’s extraordinary culinary success, Cynthia decides to investigate, discovering that Eva has become a world-renowned chef, hosting an exclusive dining experience called “The Dinner” with a four-year waiting list. Intrigued and seeking a potential reunion, Cynthia registers for the dinner.
Throughout the years, she marries twice, experiencing the loss of one husband in a scuba diving accident and later finding happiness with Reynaldo, until he expresses a desire for children. Unable to bear the thought of motherhood and repeating past mistakes, Cynthia divorces him and returns to the Midwest. These marriages and divorces highlight the continued pressures of marriage and children that are difficult for women to escape.
Her reservation finally becomes available and she flies to Minnesota for the chance to meet Eva. After the dinner, she has a clandestine meeting with her daughter but chooses not to disclose her identity. Observing Eva’s happiness and success, Cynthia refrains from reminding her of the abandonment, hoping that Eva might reach out one day. Despite her longing for a relationship, Cynthia finds contentment knowing that her daughter is thriving. Externally, therefore, she begins and ends the novel choosing to stay away from Eva. Internally, however, her character develops, since she stays away from Eva firstly for selfish and later for selfless reasons.
Braque Dragelski, Eva’s cousin, becomes her refuge after the chocolate habanero chili incident. Eva seeks solace in Braque’s university dorm, so Braque therefore represents the ability to curate one’s family and choose who to spend time with. Braque, an intelligent and disciplined athlete, strictly adheres to a demanding schedule for her diet. She has a determined and perfectionist nature. This stringent approach denies her the joys of fun and friendships. However, her resolute stance begins to waver when she discovers that she is pregnant. Fearing Eva’s judgment and recognizing her role model status, Braque aims to be a positive influence in Eva’s journey of Defining Family for Oneself.
In a subtle attempt to change her mindset, Braque’s subconscious starts sending her subliminal messages, encapsulated in her hallucinations of sweet pepper jelly. Braque’s discovery of sweet pepper jelly, a Midwest delicacy, serves as a metaphor for her own personality—sweet and kind, concealed behind a spicy and assertive exterior. A revelation comes during the renowned Hell Night event, when she realizes that food’s true purpose is not to be controlled as part of a routine but to be relished for the joy and pleasure it brings. This epiphany prompts Braque to abandon her formal athletic career, redirecting her focus to savoring various foods and embracing the happiness they can bring, especially for her unborn child. Her journey highlights food as a source of identity and community.
Will Prager, a grieving and isolated teenager coping with the recent loss of his mother, seeks solace and connection with Eva, a new student at his school. Angry at his father for quickly remarrying after his mother’s death, Will becomes infatuated with Eva as a source of comfort and joy amid his grief. Their initial dates, including a trip to the Steamboat Inn and a fishing excursion, forge a connection, but a misunderstanding during their second date creates a rift. Will angers Eva when he implies the chef at the Steamboat Inn is only interested in her sexually and not as a culinary prodigy. Despite their strained communication, Will continues to idolize Eva from a distance attempting to meet up with her, but she refuses to be controlled by him. Will represents the patriarchal oppression that marginalizes women in the Midwest, since he only views Eva as a sexual object or a source of emotional labor. When she eventually moves away, Will is left deeply saddened by her departure.
Octavia Kincade emerges as one of the most unsympathetic characters in Kitchens of the Great Midwest, embodying vanity, arrogance, and a self-righteous demeanor. Her disdain for Eva’s appearance and humble background contributes to her antagonistic persona. Despite initial support from her father and a job, Octavia faces financial hardship after failing a drug test. Notwithstanding her predicament, she maintains a superior attitude, driven by a desire for attention and an inflated sense of self-worth. Octavia’s unrequited love for Robbe, Eva’s boyfriend in this section, contributes to the motif of women in competition as the narrative suggests that Octavia has been led to believe that her worth depends on being the woman chosen by a man. This idea is reinforced when she engages in an illicit affair to maintain a semblance of importance. This is in stark contrast to Eva, her perceived rival, who achieves wealth and influential connections, underscoring the unpredictability of fate.
Jordy, the central character in Chapter 6, is a 25-year-old plagued by alcohol and drug addiction. He has a nomadic, hyper-masculine life as a hunter. Faced with the challenge of caring for his terminally ill mother, he grapples with fits of violence and struggles with the overwhelming emotions of helplessness and anger toward the world. Despite his turbulent disposition, there are glimpses of tenderness in his character, seen in his affectionate care for his ailing mother, such as preparing a margarita upon her request. To provide a special dinner for his mom, Jordy embarks on a hunting trip with his father and uncle. However, to cope with his pain, he resorts to consuming his mother’s OxyContin medications and whiskey. The pivotal moment of shooting a deer, unaware that it also has a fawn, foreshadows his mother’s impending death and Jordy’s struggle to move forward, mirroring the fate of the deer he unknowingly takes down in the woods.
Introduced as the final character in the novel, Pat Prager, a devoted Lutheran mother residing near Deer Lake in Minnesota, is known for her winning dish—peanut butter bars, a delightful dessert that has secured her victory in the county fair bake-off for six consecutive years. Despite her accolades, Pat feels a challenge to her crown with the arrival of the glamorous Celeste Mantilla, new to the area and preparing to enter her Mississippi mud bars in the contest.
Pat, deeply devout and holding a profound belief in divine providence, sees Celeste as an obstacle testing her dedication to family and faith. Using exaggerated biblical language, she describes Celeste as a “demonic force in the form of a beautiful woman” (249), labeling her “pure evil” out of jealousy for her beauty, style, and wealth. The irony unfolds as Celeste, genuinely admiring Pat, praises her authenticity. The county fair becomes a battleground for Pat’s ambitious jealousy, leading her to extreme accusations against Celeste, calling her “a harlot.” The competition between the two, part of a motif in the novel, highlights the way women are led to see each other as competition due to patriarchal structures.
However, Pat’s bars triumph once again, and she showcases her charitable nature when she secretly gifts a $75 Target gift card to Susan Smalls, a struggling military spouse. Moving beyond her friends’ criticism, Pat asserts a collective responsibility to care for one another, showing kindness beneath her ambition.
After winning the county fair, Pat enters Petite Noisette, a larger competition with a $5,000 prize and a potential job offer at a fancy restaurant. Despite harsh treatment from food purists critiquing her bars for not being vegan, Pat’s genuine love and joy shine through in her creations, and she aims to make the world a better place. This moment celebrates the importance of regional food cultures and makes the case that they should not be subsumed by trends.
The realization of her own cruelty toward Celeste dawns on her during the journey home, culminating in an opportunity for redemption when stopped by the police for drunk driving. In a selfless act, Pat claims her son’s marijuana, intending to take the blame to protect him. This moment becomes a turning point, highlighting Pat’s journey toward self-awareness and redemption.
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By J. Ryan Stradal